David W. Nellans

Sanitation is one of if not the most important part of brewing. The process by which we brew beer is an organic one using a particular strain of yeast bacteria to produce the flavors we work so hard for in beer. Insufficient sanitation can allow other bacteria like wild yeast and many others that are far worse into your wort. These will reproduce just like the yeast culture and produce off flavors that are almost guarenteed to ruin your batch. If proper sanitation if followed it is very hard to make a beer you won't want to drink.

This is my sanitation prodecure for every piece of equiptment that can come into contact with my beer. I should note that I have never lost a batch of beer yet to bacterial infection either!

1. Mechanical Cleaning
   

In your primary fermentation vessel the majority of the simple sugars are converted by yeast into alchohol. A great deal of carbon dioxide is produced during primary fermentation and if you use a glass vessel it will look like the solution is almost alive the fermentation is so active. It should be noted that because of the carbon dioxide produced a great deal of pressure can be produced. If you do not use an appropriate airlock your fermentation vessel can explode which is not only very messy but dangerous if you use glass.

After your primary fermentation you more the beer into your secondary fermentation vessel for none other than secondary fermentation!

Kegging your beer is the simplest, best, and most cost and time efficient way to store and dispense your beer. You gain the advantage of force carbonation which results in no further yeast development (unlike bottling), bulk ageing, no bottle cleaning, and you get to have beer ON TAP.

Once in the kegs most beers should be aged for at least 1 month and the heavier or higher alcoholic content it is the longer it should be aged. I prefer the 3-6 month range for aging but some people age years for highly alcoholic beers almost like wine. If nessecary you can drink your beer from the keg as soon as its cold but 1 month of aging will definately improve the beer giving it not such a green taste. Almost everyone prefers a mature taste over a green taste in their beers.

This FAQ is just getting started but here are a few answers to common questions to get you started.

• For about a $100 investment you can buy enough equiptment and supplies to brew yourself 4 cases of beer (2 batches). Every two cases after that will cost you about $20-30. Compare that to $10-15 for a 12 pack of your favorite microbrew and you see the obvious cost advantage.
  
  
• It is VERY hard to make a beer that you will not drink, hard to make a beer that is not better than most commercial brews, easy to make a beer that compares favorably to your favorite microbrew, and VERY hard to make a beer that you will not want to tweak and improve with every batch.
  

Stage 1

To make and enjoy your first batch of beer this is probobly the bare minimum of equipment you will want to invest in for your first batch.

Stage 2

After brewing a few batches in your Stage 1 equiptment and you're sure this is a hobby you want to pursue its worth your money to upgrade your equipment which helps improve the quality of the beer as well as decreasing the time it takes to brew.

If you are new to homebrewing start with the FAQ and follow the links from there to find out more.

The links below are provided for reference and helpful information for both the beginning brewer and the experienced as well. If there is something you would like to see me add or have suggestions/corrections please let me know

F.A.Q.

Equiptment

Sanitation

1992 Ford Explorer XL 4x4

I drive a '92 Ex with a few mods that I've done all myself including a new stereo, remote starter, warrior shackles, add-a-leafs, F150 coil spacers, KKM high performance air intake, B&M Shift Plus vaccum operated shift improver, and a special class 3 hitch that allows me to mount a rack which carries a reasonably light dirtbike without any problems. See below for photos from each modification.

Suzuki DR350 Reference

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I have recieved a fair amount of email in regards to what is
available for a DR350 in terms of both performance and asthetic parts.
 These pages are intended as a reference for those looking for
that information.  Please email me with any mistakes or additions
you would like to see.

Photos | Modifications
And Upgrade Listing | Parts Listing | Carburetor Tuning

Suzuki DR350 Upgrades And Modifications

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Prices are listed in US Dollars unless noted. All prices are approximate and do not include tax or shipping, but should be reasonably accurate. Please let me know if you have a different price listed.

Airbox	Price	Dealer	Description	Comments	Link
	0.00	Home Modification	Stock Airbox Modification to increase airflow to the engine.	Rejetting required after modification. Provides and increase in horsepower of approximately ??

Very Basic Kernel Building Steps

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Note: All of this should be done as root to avoid any potential conflicts...

Configuring

• make mrproper
• make xconfig
  • config, menuconfig are alternatives if you're not running X

Building

• make dep
• make clean
• make boot
• make modules

Installing

• rm -rf /lib/modules/*